BROKEN BOATS & BANANAS

By Sonia Guinane

One Friday evening early in May of this year (1997), I received an unexpected e-mail from Mary Bailey, publicising some cichlid books written by Ad Konings that were now available. Further down the page something else caught my eye, I quote:- ‘It is every Malawi Cichlid keeper’s dream to visit the lake and see the fishes for themselves. This is now possible. Stuart Grant and Ad Konings are organising ‘Cichlid Safaris’ for anyone who is interested, the first this autumn, from 20th September to 18th October. The safari include trips to the Mozambique coast, with Scuba diving and snorkelling. All under Ad’s tutelage’. As Dave had just qualified as a diver and we have always kept Malawi cichlids this trip had the prospect of being the opportunity of a lifetime and just too much of a coincidence to ignore. Obviously many other practicalities would have to be considered, such as the fact that Dave and I already had booked and paid for a two-week holiday in Rhodes, in July. He had yet another holiday on the horizon with his diving club, a one week sortie to Eilat in Israel, diving in the Red Sea this coming November.

Frantic discussions ensued, could we seriously afford it? No, but shall we just pay for it and then worry about it afterwards? Do we, especially Dave have enough annual leave left to go for perhaps part of the Safari if that is practicable to those organising it? The thought of actually seeing Malawi cichlids in their natural habitat and for Dave to be able to dive in the Lake greatly influenced our mutual decision. The fact that I had never even snorkelled and do not like even putting my face in water did not even come into the argument at that stage. About twenty minutes after receiving the original e-mail, I was on the phone to Mary for more information and to establish whether we could go for just one or two weeks. As Mary herself was going for three weeks it might just be possible. She promised to contact Ad ASAP and would get straight back to us. Sure enough a few days later confirmation for our two weeks in Malawi was received, departing UK, 26th September to Lilongwe, Malawi and returning 12th October to Gatwick, courtesy of British Airways. We were almost there!

With the day of departure drawing ever nearer, a succession of e-mails, continued to ‘fly’, between Mary, Ad, Stuart Grant and Dave and I. I was pleased to learn that another intrepid British lady traveller, Gisela Roberts was to accompany us on the same flight to Lilongwe, so we all got acquainted via e-mail. Gisela would also be Dave’s dive buddy in the lake as she was another recently qualified diver. While I was on holiday in Rhodes, I managed to partially overcome my fear of immersing my face in water and had actually learnt to snorkel, observing some fish, which was a welcome foretaste of what was to occur in Africa. All the necessary anti-malarial medication and sprays were purchased and all the injections required for Africa were completed .

Friday, September 26th 1997.

The day of reckoning is finally here, as Dave and I meet up with Gisela and Mary at Heathrow, but all of us are rather concerned that we may exceed the BA baggage allowance. As a courtesy to Stuart, we were all transporting various items that are unobtainable in Malawi, including life-jackets, (he obviously had me in mind when he requested those!) and several tubes of Euthymol toothpaste. Dave and Gisela had all their diving gear and as usual when I go on holiday, I just had too much of everything! Mary took charge of the situation and asked if all the baggage could be checked in as a multiple of four so one bag could offset another. BA seemed more concerned about the electrical equipment that Mary was taking for Stuart, so all the baggage was searched, passed but not weighed for which we all breathed a sigh of relief. The flight took off on time, 8 hours and 50 minutes to Lusaka in Zambia, before continuing to Lilongwe, the capital of Malawi where we landed at 10.45 local time on Saturday, 27th. It was a beautiful sunny morning and the red soil of Africa and exotic plants were very much in evidence. This was the first time that my three travelling companions had stepped onto African soil whereas I had been to various places in my days as an air-stewardess, including, Uganda , Kenya, Nigeria, Ghana and South Africa. I was last in the Gambia for a holiday in 1983 so I had experienced the African way of life in a limited way.

Saturday, September 27th..

Stuart’s wife, Esther is at the airport to meet us after we all cleared customs quickly upon arrival and although none of us got much sleep, due to the cramped conditions on the 747, all of that is forgotten in our excitement at actually being there. The journey to Kambiri Point, just outside Salima where Stuart Grant’s fish export station is located on the lakeshore, takes about one and a half hours in the minibus which was carefully driven by Esther. The African landscape is of very great interest to my companions, who are amazed at the conditions in which some of the local people have to live and Malawi is not the poorest of countries on that great continent. Malawi from the outset, was a very beautiful place, with many hills and deep valleys and much of the country located 1200ft above sea-level.

Finally we get our first sight of the famous Rift Lake which is so large that it is more like an inland sea. All the discomfort of that long journey was well worth it in that instant. Stuart Grant who has lived in Malawi for the last thirty nine years and has done so much to promote the popularity of Malawi cichlids native to the Lake, by exporting many different species, not just to Europe but world wide, was there to welcome us to his beautiful home. After a very tasty cold Carlsberg beer, known as a ‘Greenie’ locally, we were shown to our accommodation, which was still being completed as the main guest bungalow was already full! At least the showers were connected and I experienced the first of many cold ones that were to be the norm at the various locations during our stay. Was this to be Faulty Towers, African style or was there worse to come? Only time would tell.

Later that Sunday we meet our fellow guests who had just returned from a three day jaunt to Mozambique. Ad Konings, the group organiser, Gunther and Dieter, both from Germany. Lars from Sweden and Irv from the US. In the following two weeks we all got to know each other very well and a wonderful camaraderie evolved amongst us. That first night I was dive bombed by mozzies whereas as usual they completely ignored Dave. I guess he must taste horrible! However after a liberal application of Deet repellent, they left me alone.

Sunday, September 28th.

Today is our first excursion on the Lake in the Lady Louise to Maleri Island and Nakantenga Island and will be the first opportunity for Dave and Gisela to dive. According to Ad, both locations are suitable for snorkelling so Mary and I are hopeful that we will be able to take the ‘plunge’. The Lady Louise is named after Stuart’s daughter and is a replacement vessel for the famous Lady Diana, which is now out of service on the beach at Kambiri Point. With all the dive equipment and the air cylinders and nine people on board, it is a little crowded and must appear so to those who were there before the arrival of four Brits, but everyone is very co-operative. The trip to Maleri takes about one hour and the water is very calm, which suits me as my nautical experience is very limited, unlike Mary who has spent a great deal of time afloat.

On arrival at Maleri, the divers go in two by two, rather like Noah’s Ark! I don my snorkelling gear and go over the side of the Lady Louise for my first close up sight of Malawi cichlids in their natural habitat. The water was so clear it had been possible to see some bright blue Pseudotropheus sp. Zebra blue from the boat, but actually viewing them from the surface of the water through my mask the colours of the fish were so vibrant. I also saw Labeotropheus fuelleborni, Fossochromis rostratus, Protomelas taeniolatus and others species I could not was unable to identify, as I did not have one of Ad’s books with me in the water! There was one very large blue fish which I think was a Trematocranus placodon. What was also so amazing was the sheer number of fish, with many different species, some of which Dave and I had kept in our tanks at some stage. On this occasion I was in the water for about ten minutes after which time I began to get cold, although the actual water temperature was about 25/26 degrees. The divers returned after about thirty minutes, with their respective dive buddies. Both Gisela and Dave were really excited about their first dive in Lake Malawi. Dave had seen the well known Aulonacara sp. Maleri for which the island is most famous, as well as Melanochromis auratus and Pseudotropheus zebra red top, amongst others.

At Nakantenga Island which is only a short distance from Maleri, the diving and snorkelling was also very good with such fish as Tyrannochromis macrastoma and Nimbochromis polystigma visible to the divers. I saw Pseudotropheus zebra red top and many Labeotropeus fuelleborni feeding from the rocks which was wonderful. As Mary is unable to swim she positioned herself in the rowboat called Little Willie, which was towed by the Lady Louise and put her face complete with mask in the water without getting wet.

On the way back to Kambiri after a very exciting first day, the Lake became extremely rough and of course, yours truly felt very sea or perhaps I should say lake sick. I was told to look at the horizon,
which did help a little, but vowed to take a tablet the next time I was on the water!

Monday, September 29th.

Today, a very early start as everyone helps to load up the mini-bus, having been told by Ad to keep their luggage to a minimum as we are driving about 200 kilometres to Nkhata Bay and will be away from Stuart’s for four nights. All the dive gear and the portable compressor , plus food and baggage for eight people for that length of time is packed. I get the feeling that Ad has done all this before! He is certainly an excellent organiser and knows exactly what to do while herding a mixed bag of Europeans around Africa. The drive takes about four hours, with a couple of stops on the way for a cold drink and to allow some photographs to be taken. At one beautiful place where Ad stopped, everyone is immediately surrounded by the local children as they seem fascinated by these strange white people, who descend from the minibus to admire the local scenery. They love having their photographs taken and always break into convulsive laughter at the goings on. They appear so happy and yet have so little with most of them living in very basic surroundings. I think that overindulged Europeans could learn a lot from these Malawians in appreciating things that so many of us just take for granted.

Ad checks us into the Africa Bay Resthouse which is situated on the side of a small headland, just around the bay. This is a place much favoured by young back- packers, who seem to come in very large numbers to Nkhata Bay to catch the lake ferry to other locations around the Lake. The Resthouse is very basic and the walkways and steps between the ‘wickerwork’ rooms seem very rickety, but there are flushing loos, cold showers and mosquito nets, which are fast becoming quite a luxury. It was possible to swim and snorkel from the pretty little beach, although on this occasion I just opted for a swim.

That evening we had a good meal at the best restaurant in the ‘town’ and had the opportunity to hear and also observe the Mtendere, the lake ferry which we will be catching tomorrow evening to go to Likoma Island. Later during that night, the sound of various people snoring, including Mary and I, reverberated through the thin walls, but loudest of all was the ferry’s horn as it left the port.

Tuesday, September 30th..

Today, we are off to Lion’s Cove , which is home to the very popular Labidichromis caeruleus ‘yellow’ and ‘yellow and white’ and the beautful Cynotilapia sp. ‘lion’. It is a beautiful African morning as we leave Nkhata Bay in a large open boat with an outboard motor. At this stage the lake is very calm and everyone is excited at the prospect of either diving or snorkelling at our destination. About an hour into the three hour trip, the wind increases and the water becomes very rough and of course, yours truly is feeling very lake-sick, so out come the tablets. Again, Mary advises me to look at the horizon, but it does not seem to help. Apparently, I will get my ‘lakelegs’ eventually, but no one knows how long that will be!

During the voyage, we pass some really spectacular scenery, which I am not allowed to appreciate as my eyes are still focused on the horizon away from the land. Eventually we arrive at Lion’s Cove and I am feeling a little better, so obviously the tablet is working. Those divers amongst us, get ready two by two as usual, leaving Mary, two of Stuart’s boys and I on the boat. The preparations that they have to go through, struggling into wetsuits, checking air cylinders and weight belt etc before they can actually enter the water, looks very hard work. When they surface again after about 35 minutes diving, the whole lot has to be removed, but hearing their comments afterward about the fish they have seen it is onbiously well worth it. Although the water is still very choppy, I decide to have a snorkel in the hope that I will see some of the well known fish native to this location. Unfortunately, I did not see any fish as the water was much too deep and I was getting a little scared, in spite of the fact that I am wearing a snorkelling jacket. Looking up at the boat from the water, I suddenly realise that there is nothing to hang onto to drag myself out, so panic sets in. The two African boys, assisted by Mary try to haul me out and the more they pull, the harder it becomes to keep any sort of grip on the boat. Eventually, they succeed and I am back in the boat, firmly wedged under the outboard motor resembling a beached whale, or perhaps I should say hippo. One of the boys has to remove the outboard to free me! I am so thankful to be out of the water that I could not find enough words of gratitude to my two African heroes, who were greatly amused by the antics of the rather ‘heavy’ English lady as one of them very politely described me. As I lay stuck under the outboard, I was aware of photographs being taken of me in my predicament. I will get my revenge later, Mary! To make things even worse, there were several children on the rocks thoroughly enjoying the whole performance. I just burst into tears, but at least the feeling of lake-sickness has disappeared. Later in the day various parts of my anatomy turn black and blue.

The divers returned unaware of the aforementioned goings on, delighted with the cichlids that they have seen. Dave was impressed with the bright yellow of the Caeruleus, so unlike the washed out tank bred specimens that are the norm in captivity. He also saw the Afra sp. ‘Lion’, Petrotilapia tridentiger, Pseudotropheus zebra, Protomelas ornatus and Pseudotropeus crabro. The Crabro lives in the caves with the large Kapango catfish which is a very popular food fish, not only with the local people, but also some members of our ‘gang’, especially Gunther, who ate Kapango whenever it was available.

The journey back to Nhkata was reasonably uneventful, but of course everyone was told the tale of the beached hippo which did cause a great deal of amusement and even she was now able to laugh about it. Following a good meal at the same ‘best restaurant in town’ and experiencing the joys of a real African hole in the ground, doubling as a loo, we hang around until we are allowed to board the Mtendere before the multitude, for the journey to Likoma Island via Chisumulu Island. We are travelling first class and are therefore allowed to travel on the open top deck, where we occupy a bench each, in the hope that we can get some sleep during the night. The lower decks are completely full with local people, bags, boxes, bananas, chickens and even pigs and all the while, very loud music is playing. It all seems more reminiscent of an Indiana Jones movie than real life and Ad is constantly asked to produce the tickets that show that we are genuine first class passengers. The prospect of spending the night with those squealing pigs on the lower deck did not appeal to any of us! Eventually the famous horn sounded and the ferry departs at 22.00 on schedule, which is very unusual in Africa. After a short time even the music is turned off, so it is finally ‘bedtime’. It was a unique feeling, lying in my sleeping bag on my bench on the Mtendere, gazing up at a bright starlit African sky.

Wednesday, October 1st.

The dawn breaks and we are still on the Mtendere. I think that most of us managed some sleep and all enjoy a breakfast of eggs or eggies as the Malawians call them, fries and toast. Coffee and tea were also available, courtesy of the ferry’s ‘chef’. All of us look very dishevelled, dirty and in desperate need of a shower, as the ferry drops anchor at Chisumulu Island. Here many people disembark and many people waiting to board can be seen standing on the beach. The whole process takes about two hours before we depart for the last sector to Likoma. This only takes about an hour and the huge Cathedral on Likoma is soon visible to the naked eye. On arrival, it is good to see some of Stuart’s boys waiting for us in one of his boats, so that we and all the dive gear can be off loaded before all the bananas, pigs, chickens etc.

The boat trip to the beach only takes a few minutes and it is a lovely feeling to have both feet safely on terra firma again. We walk to the Akuzike (which means greetings in Malawian) Super Resthouse, which is located just at the top of the sandy beach. Everyone is delighted to discover that the facilities are on a par with those of the Africa Bay, flushing loos, cold showers and mozzie nets! One thing that is lacking on Likoma is electricity, but we have taken Ad’s advice and come prepared for all eventualities. The longer that we spent with him, both Dave and I and the rest of the ‘gang’ are greatly appreciating his organisation skills, patience and wonderful sense of humour.

That afternoon following a most welcome shower and a lunch of bananas, which at times seems the main part of our diet, we are taken by Barnabus to the waiting open boat for a short ride to Maingano Island. Barnabus is a delightful person, who lives on Likoma and has worked for Stuart for 27 years. The boat used has an outboard motor, but is very small and there are ten of us on board, so it is rather a tight squeeze. As we approach Maingano, crocodiles are spotted sunning themselves on some rocks and suddenly the prospect of me snorkelling is immediately put on hold. The boat is steered just around the next corner from the crocodiles and the anchor is lowered. Undaunted, the divers get ready, two at a time due to lack of space and over they go. I have yet to determine, whether they are very brave or just completely insane and even as I write this, the latter reason remains favourite. I have to ask myself, would any normal person fly all that way and then travel many more kilometres by road and even more by ferry, just to see fish! As a normal person, I have to say that the answer is a definite yes. Once again Dave is delighted with the cichlids that he has seen, especially the Melanochromis johanni ‘maingano’, as this has always been one of his favourite Malawi ciclids. He also observed
Cynotilapia afra, Pseudotropheus aurora and a magnificent Protomelas sp. ‘spilonotus Likoma’. Every time he and the others surface and describe the fish they have seen, I really wish I could share the experience.

The African nights fall quickly and by 18.00 it is very dark and this evening was no exception. However, the courtyard of the Akuzike Resthouse is lit with oil lamps and Mary and I lay the table for supper under the stars. Throughout the holiday as soon as it is gets dark, Dave and I have been smothering ourselves with Deet mozzie spray, with excellent results. It is possible to see the little dears land on an arm and literally die straight away before they have an opportunity to bite. As a result it is possible to sit outside. This meal is an Ad speciality and consisting of boiled rice, which was cooked next door, mixed with either tinned tuna or meat. All of the food was brought with us from Kambiri. This feast was washed down with fairly cold bottles of ‘Greenies’. Dessert consisted of the favourite (and only) yes, you have guessed it, bananas. Following that excellent meal and after some good conversation, everyone retires very early as we have to be up at 5am tomorrow for the boat ride to Mozambique.

Thursday, October 2nd.

After a reasonable night’s sleep, all of us are up about 5am and I must say I am feeling refreshed, following the obligatory cold shower. It is quite cool early in the morning, so breakfast, consisting of toast, eggies, tea or coffee is very welcome. I know that Ad is hoping to leave for Mozambique by 6.30, but unfortunately, this is not going to be possible, due to the very strong wind that is blowing. This particular wind usually eases during the morning, so none of us are too concerned.

It gives Mary, Dave and I an opportunity to explore the little market that is located just outside the Super Resthouse. I decide to buy a large bar of soap as Dave and I are fast running out of clean clothes and I intend to do some washing in the Lake, while the others are diving. I also bought a bright red African wrap to use as a dressing gown as nearly everything had been left at Stuart’s. This wrap was to more than prove its worth in various ways for the rest of our stay in Malawi.

By 8am, the wind has dropped sufficiently for the departure to Mozambique, a long journey which takes about two and a half hours. Lars, Gunther and Ad have all visited this impoverished country in years gone-by and they are all of the same opinion that although Malawi is poor, it appears affluent in comparison to conditions in Mozambique. All of us are well aware of the difference when we drop anchor on arrival and make our way to Passport Control. For a massive sum of 50 Malawian Kwatchas, (about £2), we are given permission to dive or snorkel in Mozambique territorial waters. From the Passport Control office, it is possible to see the shell of a Catholic Church which had obviously been a beautiful building at one time, probably when the Portuguese were still there. There are people around, but they all look malnourished, especially the children which is very sad. It causes some discussions, as most of us, including me are overweight because of our opulent European lifestyle.


After re-boarding the boat, we go just a short distance to Cobue where the divers continue the customary procedure and leave the boat two by two. As the water is rather rough, I am not sure whether to snorkel or not as I do not want a repeat performance of not being able to get back into the open vessel and have to go through more embarrassing situations. Mary has a sudden brain wave, so full marks to her and the photographs taken during the beached hippo incident are temporarily forgotten! Why don’t we put the long rope that is attached to the back of the boat, along the side and tie it at the front so that she and I have something to hang onto when we want to get out of the water. Now feeling a lot more confident I am soon back in the water, closely followed by Mary. I am pleased that I decide to be brave, as I see some bright blue Pseudotropheus socolofi, Fossochromis rostratus and some gorgeous blue ‘Haps’ which I think were Protomelas annectens.

I never spend very long in the water and this occasion was no exception. I thought that getting out would be no problem, but I think that the great Bard mentioned ‘the best laid plans of mice and men’ and he was right. Yet again, I am being hauled out of the water, but as time went on, I became a lot more efficient with the rope attachment.

After his dive at Cobue, Dave is delighted with the fish he has seen. He was most impressed by a species of Cynotilapia afra that he has never seen before and one that Ad was describing before the dive. Apparently the top half of the fish is completely yellow and it is only found at this location in the Lake. Dave also saw a Nimbochromis livingstonii lying on the sand playing dead, in the ususal fashion of this well known predator and he was able to take photographs of the fish. We actually had a large male Livingstonii that did this, in one of our aquariums and it was possible to see how his breathing slowed considerably whenever a small fish swam past him.

The next location is Mara Point which is situated not far from Cobue, just off the Mozambique coast. Divers away and once again, I am snorkelling , while Mary does some of her laundry over the side of the boat. This time I did see not much as the water was not very clear at the surface, but at least I managed to clamber out of the water unaided. Dave and the others saw many Copidichromis species, including mloto, with the males defending their sand nests. He was also surprised at how close together all these nests were. He saw the popular Pseusdotropheus zebra ‘blueblotch’ and another two of his favourites, Nimbochromis linni and Pseudotropheus elongatus.

Following the long ride back to Likoma, supper is a repeat of the previous evening. Sitting under the African stars smothered in Deet, eating Ad’s speciality and washed down with a fairly cold Greenie. It is so peaceful, no traffic, no pollution, just excellent company and mosquitoes by oil-lamp, followed by another early night as tomorrow we are setting sail at first light, to go to Chisumulu Island and Taiwan Reef.

Friday, October 3rd.

This morning starts at 5am, with the usual mad scramble to be the first in the shower. With just three females and five males, it is not surprising to be waiting patiently outside the ‘ladies’ shower to have the door open and a male of the species appear. Today, it is Ad who emerges from the ladies, but as I have already said, in Africa, anything goes. Toast, eggies, tea and coffee are quickly consumed, just as Barnabus arrives. The boats are ready, but the lake is very rough. It is decided that we will go anyway as the wind should drop mid-morning. It was just my luck, to be sitting on the starboard side where the spray from the waves was continuous. I make a mental note to sit on the other side of the boat on the return journey although by degrees everyone is getting very wet. I am a little nervous as the waves were very high, but I have every confidence in Barnabus who is an excellent sailor as he seems to know exactly when to slow the boat, to enable it to just cruise over them. At least I now have my ‘lake legs’ as I no longer feel any nausea. Eventually we arrive at Chisumulu Island and the plan is that Mary and I will be ‘marooned’ here, while the rest of the ‘gang’ goes on to dive at Taiwan Reef, which is apparently just a rock sticking out of the water in the middle of nowhere. Why do I get this horrible feeling that they are pleased to get rid of us for a few hours and that if Dave pays Ad enough Kwatchas they might conveniently forget to pick us up on the way back?

Abandoned on Chisumulu, Mary and I soon discover that it is possible to snorkel from the rocks on the shore which suits both of us very well. In very shallow water it is possible to see many species of both Mbuna and ‘Haps’, including many Pseudotropheus tropheops ‘ Red Cheek’, Melanochromis sp. blotch, Fossochromis rostratus and another Protomelas species which was very bright blue with a half yellow dorsal fin that I was unable to identify. Mary, who is still nervous in water, was able to just sit wearing a mask with her face in the water looking at all the fish. Eventually we were rescued so Dave obviously did not have enough money to pay Ad. The diving at Taiwan Reef is the main topic of conversation for some time. It transpires that Gisela is the first female ever to dive there, so she will get her name in the record books. The reef is apparently a cliff with just a sheer drop straight down with many fish everywhere. Dave saw many of the beautiful Protomelas sp. Taiwan Reef, Labeotroheus trewavase, Pseudotropheus sauloisi who was named in honour of one of Stuart’s divers. Melanochromis johanni with the yellow female are also found here as are Copidichromis borleyi.

At a reef just a short distance from Chisumulu the divers are in the water once again, but not Mary and I as the lake is still very rough. Ad uses his GPS frequently and locates the exact position in the lake where certain species are found. The voyage back to Likoma is very long and it is getting dark, as the tropical African night falls very swiftly. I am wearing Ad’s wetsuit jacket which he very kindly lent me, so I stay both warm and dry. Dave is having a problem with the big toe on his left foot as he broke the nail before we left the UK and his fins have now rubbed it very sore and it has become infected. Various remedies are suggested, including a visit to the hospital on the island. He decides to ‘operate’ on it himself when we return to the Akuzike and is very brave as it must have been very painful. I ‘help’ by holding the torch, but have to keep looking away. Ad loans Dave some antibiotic paste which he always has with him on his journeys to tropical climates. I am suffering from a sore lip caused by the mouth piece on my snorkel, but that pales into insignificance when compared with Dave’s injury!

That same night an excellent supper is prepared, rice, peas and ham with a side salad a la Mary, followed by some bananas that she bought at the market. Unfortunately, these bananas are not completely ripe which causes all of us to have extreme facial contortions as we attempt to consume the fruit. Needless to say, nobody had ‘seconds’, but Ad produced two tins of peaches from his Pandora’s box, which were then passed around the table with each person forking a peach slice and then passing on the tin. This game of ‘pass the peaches’ provided great entertainment and was repeated the next evening. It is certainly possible to survive without electricity and television.

Saturday October 4th.

Up again at 05.30 for the last boat trip, the destination this time was Ndumbi Rocks. The lake is still very rough and Dave cannot dive as he must keep his foot dry, although it is a little better today. There are two boats today, as some of Stuart’s divers are going to collect some fish. As the anchor is thrown over the side of our boat, there is a loud bang and Barnabus suddenly seems very worried. Upon closer inspection, he announces that the boat is broken and continues to look very concerned. With that, yours truly really panics, donning snorkel vest which I inflated to its maximum, praying and suggesting to Barnabus that perhaps I should travel back to Likoma in the other boat. He is wonderful and tries to reassure me as do the other people in the boat, but I am very scared. It is a very long way to the nearest shore, so the other boat might be the only other option. Eventually a plastic fish bag is poked in the large crack with a metal coat hanger and it seems we will get back in one piece. On arrival at Likoma, where I was frantically kissing the ground, the size of the crack became apparent. I am glad that I did not know how large it was while we were still on the water! Barnabus is my hero as I will never forget the broken boat.

Back at the resthouse, we learn that we will have to stay an extra night due to the late arrival of the Mtendere. This means that there is an opportunity to visit the beautiful cathedral, which was built on the site where witches were burnt in years gone by. The ‘Last Supper’ by oil lamp is a repeat of all the others, but with a double helping of ‘pass the peaches’. In spite of the broken boat, I have really enjoyed the time on Likoma, where it is so quiet, (apart from the chickens). The air is so clean and the laid back pace of life is such a contrast to the western world. As Lars so aptly often states, ‘this is Africa’.

Sunday October 5th.

We are called at 5am as the ferry has arrived and a mad panic ensues. There is the usual scramble for the showers, with gents in ladies and ladies in gents, but this is Africa. There is no time for eggies so we will have to wait for breakfast until we are on the Mtendere. Barnabus takes us and all the gear to the ferry on another of Stuart’s open boats. There is quite a swell as he draws along side the ferry, which Ad expertly boards. He then helps the rest of us, but of course when it my turn I get it all wrong again. Most people waited until the waves were at their highest and then just stepped aboard, but not being nautical, I try the same process when the water was at it’s lowest point. Ad pulls me, helped by someone else over the side and I land in a most undignified heap at the feet of some very bemused Malawians who are gazing at this European female as though she is something from another planet. Once again my antics cause great amusement to the rest of the ‘gang’ and I do not even charge them for the privilege!

It takes a long time to load all the passengers at Likoma and then Chismulu. Boxes, chickens, bananas, bags of fish, children and many people are crammed on the lower decks. These people do have a hard life and have so little, yet seem so happy and cheerful. I think that we could all learn a lot from them. The journey back to Nkharta Bay is about eight hours, which passes quite quickly. It is a beautiful sunny day and the lake is very calm. Back on dry land we visit the same ‘best restaurant’ in town, while Ad collects the minibus from the police station. The only thing on the menu is banana pancakes, which most people decide to eat. As future events would show, it was a blessing that I only consumed a tiny amount as most of the others really suffered later as a result of eating theirs. It is a long journey back to Stuart’s. Ad is a very careful driver, but he must have been very tired as it had been a very long day. Eventually, we arrive at Kambiri Point where Stuart’s house is a very welcome sight.

Monday, October 6th.

Thankfully today is a rest day at Kambiri, much to the relief of Dave, who is really suffering after his banana pancake. In fact everyone that ate one is experiencing very unpleasant side effects. Once again, Gisela and I were ok so who can really say that females are the weaker sex! We had a look around Stuart’s huge fish houses and saw variety of cichlids caught by his divers, housed in holding tanks. These beautiful fish are exported to many different locations all over the world, including Japan and Europe. This immense fish export business has been operating for many years and many of the wild caught fish from Malawi that arrive in this country, have come from Stuart’s at Kambiri Point. That afternoon everyone got their gear ready for the trip to Cape McClear the next morning while to enjoying the relaxation day. By the evening Dave is feeling a little better as are the other banana pancake victims.

Tuesday , October 7th.

There is a long boat ride ahead of us today, but at least we are using the Lady Louise, which is larger and more comfortable, than the open boat that we used on Likoma. The lake is very calm as we leave the shore at Kambiri Point in little Willie to board the Lady Louise. Because the lake level is continually dropping due to lack of rain, she has to be anchored some distance from the shore and one of Stuart’s boys rows us along side. The water is shallow enough to be able to ‘walk’ out to her. Climbing on board from Little Willie is a lot easier than the already mentioned scramble to get on the Mtendere!

Although Dave and the others are still not feeling too good, they are all determined to dive when we reach Cape McClear and I am hoping to snorkel. This evening we will be camping on the beach which will be my first experience of spending a night under canvass. The prospect of no airbed did not cause me much concern at this stage as I was confident that I will cope with any discomfort. Cape McClear is located at the southern end of Lake Malawi with a protected area for the endemic fish. It is possible to dive or snorkel there with permission, but the catching of fish for any purpose is prohibited. This will be Dave’s first dive for a while and he is still feeling a little weak following his banana pancake problem so decides to take it easy. The water is rough so no snorkelling, but I could see many beautiful fishes. This is one of those occasions when I wish I was brave enough to dive!

All the returning divers comment on the diversity of the cichlids species that they have seen, Dave included. Otopharynx lithobates, Stigmatochromis modestus, Labeotropheus trewavase ‘red top’, Nimbochromis linni, Nimbochromis polystigma and Pseudotropheus tropheops. He saw a large Tyrannochromis macrostoma female actually releasing her fry to feed and then take them quickly back into her mouth as he approached. It is witnessing scenes like this that have made the long trip to Malawi so worthwhile.

That evening at the camp site is on the beach which we are sharing with baboons, (and I am not referring to my fellow travellers!) Dave and I are complete greenhorns when presented with a tent to erect. At least this is virgin territory as far as I am concerned, but he has no excuse as he was once awarded a Duke of Edinburgh award for camping in Snowdonia. Finally, with Irv’s help our tent is erected so we can bed down for the night. It is then that I realise that I should have brought an airbed as the sand is very hard! Next time I will get it right.

Wednesday, October 8th.

This morning’s cold shower is a welcome relief to my aching limbs after a rather uncomfortable night. At least now though I can say I have camped in Africa and intend to go back to Malawi in 1999 for the full four weeks of Ad’s safari. After breakfast, the Lady Louise heads off again towards Zimbawe Rocks where more diving is planned.

During the boat ride, we saw many black clouds on the horizon which are swarms of lake flies that provide a valuable food source to some of the birds and other wild life that can be seen around the Lake. We have also seen the magnificent Malawian fish eagle in many different locations during our stay, with the rocks that they frequent liberally covered in guano.

At Zimbawe Rock, which is yet again literally just a collection of rocks sticking out of the water, The water is a little cloudy so I just have a quick swim. The divers also have a problem with visibility which disappoints Dave as this is to be his last dive in the Lake. He and Gisela settle on a rock, scratching the surface which releases food and all the fish come crowding around them, Pseudotropheus zebra O/B, Otopharnyx lithobates, Labeotropheus fuelleborni, Labeotropheus trewavase ‘red top’ and many Macrostoma. They also see large Kapango catfish accompanied by Pseudotropheus crabro.

The last port of call that day is Mumbo Island, which is home to the Pseudotropheus sp. ‘tropheops
Lilac’ and Pseudotropheus sp. ‘tropheops mumbo’. As their airtanks are almost empty and the lake is now very rough, Dave just snorkels, while Gisela stays in the boat with Mary and I. There is a very strong wind blowing and it takes two hours to reach Kambiri Point, where an army of Stuart’s boys wade out to help off load us and all the gear.

That evening is the realisation that the holiday is almost over for Gisela, Dave and I, although the others still have another week. There is one more treat in store for us on our last two days and we are determined to make the most of our short time left in this beautiful country.

Thursday, October 9th.

This morning we board the minibus, with an overnight bag and drive to Liwande which is situated at the southern end of the lake. Here we walk over dry mud to board a miniature ‘Mississipi’ paddleboat for a two hour cruise up the Shire River to Mvu Camp where we are to spend the night. Mvu means hippo in Malawian. The water level in the Shire River has dropped considerably over the last few years due to lack of rain fall which is now the norm all over the world. The cruise to the camp which is located in a national park takes about two hours and the variety of wild life is wonderful, as Malawi takes great pride in helping with conservation. Many hippos, both in and out of the water grazing like cattle, crocodiles, impala, waterbuck and several herds of elephants, both adults and babies. There are Maribou storks, kites, ibis, egrets, eagles and many other birds along the river’s edge. Mvu Camp is a delightful place sympathetically constructed within the confines of the park and our accommodation for the night is in chalets that look like safari tents, but have real beds and solar powered lights. This the sort of camping that I can cope with! Warm showers are another unexpected luxury. It was another wonderful experience sleeping in the ‘jungle’ with all the fascinating noises (apart from Dave’s snoring) that broke the silence from time to time.

Friday, October 10th.

Our last full day in Africa dawns and for once it is cloudy as there has been rain overnight. The view from the river bank is incredible, like something out of a Hollywood movie or a BBC wild life program. Hippos everywhere, birds and many crocodiles of varying sizes on the opposite bank just beginning to stir as the day starts to warm up. Following an excellent breakfast, we are back on the Malawi paddlesteamer heading up the Shire River. This time we see even more elephants than on the journey down yesterday. Is there no end to the wonders of the Dark Continent? Everyone is tired, but has thoroughly enjoyed the time at Mvu. Towards the end of the long drive back to Kambiri, Ad stops at a Monastic Retreat to enable us to buy some local wood carvings. I buy a large carved cichlid which is still in our fish room.

Back at Stuart’s an excellent farewell dinner has been laid on for us and the three of us leaving the following day are very sorry to be going. We have just experienced a cichlid keepers dream, seeing Malawi cichlids in their natural habitat, visiting places after which many of the species are named. It has been possible to see Mbuna grazing on aufwuchs growing on the rocks, just as they also do in the rocky décor we provide for them in the aquarium and the many species of ‘Haps’. All of us learnt a great deal more about these fish having spent time with Ad , while enjoying Stuart’s hospitality. This fish safari was the first of its kind and Dave and I feel proud to have been amongst the guinea pigs. As I have already said we intent to return in 1999 for the whole four weeks.

Saturday, October 11th.

The day of departure is here. All the ‘gang’ pose for the obligatory final photograph just before Dave, Gisela and I leave for Lilongwe Airport. We have all become good friends during the short time we spent together and it sad to have to say goodbye. However this African tale has a sting in the tail! At the airport we discover that our British Airways Boeing 747 is stuck on the ground with hydraulic problems and is not likely to leave until the next day. Accommodation and meals in a hotel are provided overnight, courtesy of BA, but the flight home is delayed over 24 hours. When we finally return to the UK via Johannesburg and arrive at Heathrow, all our baggage has gone missing!